anyone else use a smallframe electronic ignition kit from scootrs? i got one on my 75 v90. no matter where i set the timing it wants to run so hot as to start melting the cylinder shroud.

Well *there's* your problem right there.

Small taper crank? Go find an et3 or early pk stator/flywheel setup. They're not that hard to find. Anything that comes in a ScootRS package? Trash.

-=Tom

pfffffffffft
not 100% true

some parts suck
some parts are what they are = poorly made parts but cheap and fit so so
some are great for the price
some are crap

The scoot RS smallframe ignition kit is one of the few nice things they sell. Don't let others say it is not. The parts of that kit are from the solid PX ignition setup = solid

The only difference is the turned down flywheel and the stator back plate that is milled to fit onto a smallframe case. The kit comes with a lot of little things you need to do the conversion and works great once set up. They make a small and a large taper crank version. Give a call to Patrick (P-Town scooter shop) for advice since they do 4 or more of those a year these days...!!

Your heat issue are due to either jetting (lean / airleaks), timing (too advanced) or porting / timing issues (stock performance kits seem to have their porting timings st up to right for stock pipes and not beyyer pipes like the VSP road or race or better).

be safe

what is the whole setup...??

I'm using the standard stock small frame exhaust. it's got a 16 16 carb. stock jetting. stock cylinder. the motor was rebuilt all stock. it's a 3 speed. we didn't add any performance parts, pipe, carb, anything... only thing we did was switch to electronic ignition with the scoot rs kit. the person who did the motor previously used several (at least 3 or 4) of these kits with no problems. that's why we're baffled with it. one thing is the engine cowl door is missing. would it be that vital for cooling the cylinder? both cowls (american market smallie) were missing when we won the scooter in a raffle. we made wooden cowls with slots for air on the engine side. i'm going to re check jetting. below sea level in nola, but stock jetting should work fine here. can i dial in the small frame carb the same way as on my P series?

I'm using the standard stock small frame exhaust. it's got a 16 16 carb. stock jetting. stock cylinder. the motor was rebuilt all stock. it's a 3 speed. we didn't add any performance parts, pipe, carb, anything... only thing we did was switch to electronic ignition with the scoot rs kit. the person who did the motor previously used several (at least 3 or 4) of these kits with no problems. that's why we're baffled with it. one thing is the engine cowl door is missing. would it be that vital for cooling the cylinder? both cowls (american market smallie) were missing when we won the scooter in a raffle. we made wooden cowls with slots for air on the engine side. i'm going to re check jetting. below sea level in nola, but stock jetting should work fine here. can i dial in the small frame carb the same way as on my P series? i just read the dialing in the 19 19 carb post and i'm going to try jetting richer and see if it helps. mine bogs a bit too in each gear.

many people don't have the engine side door...
won't effect the overall temp of the engine at all. It might slow down the cooling of the fresh air...!!

those carbs are very prone to air leaks
put in a main that you think is way too big and see if she 4-strokes
if not go bigger until she does and then back off one point

if you squish is under 1.2mm that can cause temps to be higher... check that too and set it to 1.5 mm or greater so you can lower the compression a bit and run cooler.

It's Sh*tRS, which means it's more than likely knock-off LML Sensation parts from somewhere like DanMotor, not PX.

Having said that:

What plug are you running? Run a colder (b8) plug down here.
What's it reading?
Have you done the "Spray carb cleaner at the intake" trick yet?

Smallframes like to leak at the inlet manifold, usually at the sleeve/clamp setup. It's a shitty setup. It's 4 pieces all coupled with two clamps and sealed with felt...wtf? If you don't have the rubber donut in place it can sometimes cause problems as well.

-=Tom

i'm using a b8 plug as i've always done on my bikes down here.
plug reads nice and brown.

ok i'm excited...learning moment
what do you mean by "4 strokes"?
and
how do i check and adjust the squish?

I found an excellent explanation of "four stroking" on youtube if anyone is interested...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0wzph3hL6EE

I found this explanation of squish band measurement and adjustment. Do we have vespa gaskets in different thicknesses available? I never heard about that before.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2poOMNTTSwc

How's your ring end gap?

yup

you can get a gasket sheet from a auto / vdub shop and make your own or buy some pre-made ones here of various thickness for the kit / scoot your riding:
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/main/bas ... ket&d=(sma)&a=1&sort=0&page=3

when using a new gasket smear some oil on it and let sit for 5 - 10 mins to let it swell a bit before you compress it to the torque spec.

yup

you can get a gasket sheet from a auto / vdub shop and make your own or buy some pre-made ones here of various thickness for the kit / scoot your riding:
http://www.sip-scootershop.com/main/bas ... ket&d=(sma)&a=1&sort=0&page=3

when using a new gasket smear some oil on it and let sit for 5 - 10 mins to let it swell a bit before you compress it to the torque spec.